Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Tuesday | February 21, 2017

This morning, we sailed into the Bay of Islands. While it is certainly known for its obliging climate and wealth of outdoor activities, New Zealand’s Bay of Islands also holds a significant position in New Zealand history: the town of Russell was the first permanent European settlement in the country. The Māori people, having arrived centuries earlier, were none too pleased with this development—Chief Hone Heke sacked the town in 1845, sparing only the Mission House. Signed here, the landmark Treaty of Waitangi eventually sorted things out and remains the cornerstone of race relations here in New Zealand today.

Today was another one of those days we will never forget. The predominant reason was that we had an amazing guide, Kena Alexander, a Maori descendent who captivated us with his knowledge of his people and their history in New Zealand. He can be found at kena@culturenorth.co.nz.

A (thankfully) small group of us got in our little van and headed to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the birthplace of New Zealand independence in 1840. Kena explained that the Maori people are believed to have immigrated from Tahiti in the 1300s. They made the journey through Polynesia on large canoes. Today, almost 500,000 people claim to be of Maori descent, 125,000 from one tribe alone.

At our first stop, Kena explained much history about the Maori. We stood outside this wooden building, the first structure ever erected in New Zealand; it was built in 1823.

It was there the missionaries lived during the time they constructed the stone building, which was completed in 1833.

It is used as a “trading post” (souvenir store) today.

This is the lookout tower built by the missionaries.

In fact, it was on this very site the first Christian mass was held in New Zealand on December 25, 1814– although there was no building on the site.

So . . . it is reported that the first white man to come to New Zealand was Capt. Cook in 1769. However, although he sailed through the waters and charted them – and named the area New Zealand – he never actually set foot on the land. In 1772, the French came to the area– the same bay we are standing next to today –and took up hostilities with the Maori. They killed Maori but then the Maori retaliated. Not only did the Maori kill French sailors, but they then ate them!

Cannibalism is a part of the Maori lifestyle. In fact, when they go to battle, the warriors stick their tongues out at their adversaries– in anticipation!

It is not meant to intimidate them, but to tell them that once the warriors slay them, they intend to eat them.

In the 1820s, some of the Christian missionaries brought several Maori to England. The war chiefs were brought to Cambridge University where their language was written for the first time ever. The British adorned them with many gifts. As the Maori were sailing back to New Zealand, they offloaded all the gifts in exchange for guns and ammunition. Then, when they returned to New Zealand, some of the war chiefs slaughtered thousands of slaves over the course of six years in the 1820s. This was done solely so they could harvest their brains and eat them in a show of strength.

In 1833, James Busby came to this area and lived in this home.

The house has been restored.

It was here that he, and Admiral Hanson, convinced the Maori to sign the treaty that was controversial at that time; and it remains controversial to this day.

It was the intent of the British that the Maori cede their sovereignty to the crown and thus allow Great Britain to have control over all the land of New Zealand. On the other hand, the Maori thought they were signing an agreement to coexist with the British and to have the protectorate of the Royal Navy. Various tribes debated whether this treaty should be signed, but eventually it was.

This flag was commissioned for the new land.

Or that’s what the Maori thought. The British used a flag with the Union Jack in it – and still do today.

I thought this was a cool photo, juxtapposing our ship and the recreational tools of the local schoolboys.

In 1845, as a result of the treaty, a new war broke out and that war lasted 32 more years.

We took a short walk to this hand-carved Maori building.

Each of the idols represented the gods from that tribe, and other symbols record ancestry for many generations.

But people in New Zealand were prohibited from speaking Maori until about 30 years ago. Kena’s parents would have been prosecuted if they had used it publicly.

We walked down to the water and Kena explained the history of these war canoes.

As a teenager, he was instrumental in ferrying them from the water to the top of the mountain in anticipation of the Queen’s visit to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the signing of the treaty.

Juxtapose these canoes against The World.

Kena showed us the kauri trees, the second largest trees in the world. Their gum was New Zealand’s first export – to the United States.

Presently, dairy is a major export. Over 97% of all dairy from New Zealand is exported.

Back on the ship, we cleaned up before stopping by the Plaza to watch the Kara Hana Maori dancers. They were quite fascnating, albeit violent!

I wanted to eat raw meat when they were done!

Then, we were privileged to have dinner with friends on the Marina platform. We enjoyed three dozen oysters among three of us! But the highlight of the evening was when a school of hammerhead sharks circled around the stern, chasing bait fish so viciously they were jumping out of the water – and making a lot of noise doing it. These are the best, unplanned experiences on the ship. Just imagine feasting on oysters and steak, red wine and watching sharks attack fish for a dinner show!

What a great day.