Saigon (Reunification Palace)

Sunday | December 30, 2014

Today was my last day in mainland Vietnam. I decided to take a ride into downtown so I got to visit the Palace of Reunification, formerly know as the Independence Palace.

The bus dropped us off outside the Opera House which was quite fortunate because there was a small concert being performed on the steps.

As intriguing as the concert were the hundreds of spectators outside watching. But all of the spectators were on motorbikes; it was a very odd sight indeed.

The palace was constructed in 1962, and it’s design, architecture and furnishings reflected that—very Frank Lloyd Wright.

We visited the Cabinet Room, Banquet Room, President’s Reception Room, State Dining Room and a slew of other government-type rooms.

We also were able to visit the roof top heliport which has historical significance. In April 1975, to Viet Cong pilots, who had infiltrated the South Vietnamese army and were posing as South Vietnamese pilots, flew their sorties south right over the palace. They dropped two bombs on the roof of the heliport, as depicted in this photograph.

Also on April 30, 1975, the North Vietnamese army, led by these tanks, crashed through the main gate of the palace and forced the President to unconditionally surrender to the revolutionary government.

The palace also had a working underground bunker from which the president was able to conduct business and take refuge during times of crisis. The bunker held the president’s war room, a shooting gallery and a series of communications rooms.

We chuckled when we walked by what was identified as “the Code Room.” Perhaps this is why they lost the war.

The photo gallery contained more propaganda than balanced truth, but that is the power of the pen and certainly no surprise given where we are. Any country that wins a war is entitled to write the history books, at least in that country. For example, one photograph told of US soldiers leading Vietnamese women into “concentration camps.” Another photograph professed that the United States used chemicals to “destroy the environment.” While there may be a hint of truth in this allegation (e.g., Agent Orange), the environmental practices in Vietnam today would make the US steel and coal plants of the 1890s look like a sterile environment.

We left the palace and were treated to a group of teenagers doing what appeared to be the Vietnamese Macarena on the street.

Then, we hopped into a taxi to try to find a store that specializes in men’s ostrich shoes. After getting ripped off by the taxi driver, we found the store, but it was closed. We ended up wandering around in a neighborhood that was filthy with motorbike repair shops, not the kind of place I wanted to spend the day – or even 3 minutes.

On the other hand, I felt rich beyond belief, because I went to the cash machine and took out this $500,000 bill (approximately US$41)!

I also learned why there is such a hornet’s nest of wires on every street, unlike anywhere else in the world. Actually, it is a self-fulfilling prophecy. Because there are so many wires, when one fails, it is not cost-efficient to determine which one failed. Therefore, the power people just one new lines every time there is a failure. So where will it end?

We went back to the ship where we had a traditional Vietnamese lunch – Banh Mi and soba noodles. I freaking love this sandwich!

The sail away from Saigon was terrific.  Were able to sneak back through the river we had traversed a few days earlier, and the view was just as stupendous. Look, for example, at these small group of fishermen who were moored in the river at various points, about a mile apart.

But tonight was very, very special. The ship holds a reception for all new residents shortly after they arrive. One of the members of the Board of Directors introduced me and I spoke. Besides all the residents aboard, also present were the captain, staff captain, residential director, residential services manager, general manager food and beverage executives, and other senior management personnel. It was a wonderful open bar with sushi and all kinds of hors d’oeuvres that lasted for hours.

During the reception, I met some more wonderful people with whom I can easily see myself spending much time. One of the fascinating dynamics was the amount of conversation related to the sale of my existing apartment. If I can only monetize the amount of interest into a handsome purchase price, this could be a lovely week for me.

I headed up to East for dinner where I ordered a softshell crab special, and it was wonderful. Mia, the sommelier, made a great wine recommendation. For only $42, we had a lovely 2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry, La Croix Boissée, Chinon AOC. (For my money, the taste exceeded that of the $400 bottle from a few nights earlier.)